CLASSIC | PITTI UOMO 93 Trends

SECTIONS: Pitti Uomo, Pop Up Stores, HI Beauty

THE ATHLEISURE LOOK CONQUERS THE NEW GENTLEMAN’S HEART

MORE FUTURE-ORIENTED AND HIGH-END COLLECTIONS

The classic wardrobe for men is expanding with more future-oriented chapters designed for leisure. It’s jersey for sweatshirts and outspokenly tech trousers with basic lines that accentuate the touches of color. Nylon has a strong presence in membranes that “breathes” and bonding with neoprene – perfect for bad weather.

Finishes aim at offering waterproofing on parkas and padded vests, or on knits and elastan, on super-light and supple mid-ankle knit sneakers. Tradition meets tech fabrics; the classic look embraces the sporty. There are new proportions for clothes inspired by winter sports, but their charm is timeless. Materials such as knitted wool and cashmere, down, elasticized tech fabrics, fleece, laminated flannels and mélange nylon work together, overlapping in multi-layer looks with a metro attitude.

Clean lines, knitted collars and geometric quilting accentuate the sophisticated looks. And…beyond athleisure, there is a unique look that reproduces the sporty-formal blend in new-concept clothes to wear at home and outside. The new blazers are classic in shape, but comfort-oriented materials transform the fits.

WINTER WITH A HIGH RATE OF COZINESS

A PASSION FOR KNITWEAR AND THE RETURN OF THE KNITTED JACKET

Knitwear lives its own life, but also offers woven looks. Turtlenecks, cardigans, V-neck pullovers and vests in contemporary looks but with a flair that starts in the 1930s and extends all the way to the ’sixties. Embossed mohair and silk cardigans, or ribbed vests. The barrier between blazers and knitted fabrics is becoming hazier.

The “handmade” look is flourishing with exclusive yarns flanking baby alpaca, and non-plus ultra-wools with a techno-texture. The knitted jacket is increasingly important: single- or double-breasted, unlined and soft for a cocoon identity. Knit jackets are cut a sewn, or full-fashioned, with bold textures for contrasts like macro-herringbone, and some color play. Traditional jackets have softer shapes and volumes and wink at a leisure approach.

Woven textures are evident, and mixed either ton-sur-ton or in contrasting colors; checks are huge but subdued; velour jackets feature small contrasting details while frosted wool makes for a vintage, but lasting charm.

THRILLING ITEMS FROM “BACK WHEN…”

GETTING IN TOUCH WITH THINGS THAT TALK ABOUT US

Heritage means security and takes us closer to our roots. Outfits that dip into the past to create vintage looks and shapes, but interpret them in a contemporary key with updated looks and fits. A clever mix of past-and-future using traditional materials, with strong ties to nature, but filled with research in an evolutionary phase that fluctuates between obsessive monitoring of personal data, social media and control. The further we go, the stronger the need to make contact with things and sensations that touch us both emotionally and physically: “warm” clothes that can excite us with their feel, and heighten our memories or imaginations. Sharp suits with marked lapels, and three-piece suits with single- or double-breasted vests.

A mix of fabrics speak to the new opulence with its natural and raw hand:

• very fine worsted wools,
• flannel looks with micro-weaves, and pinstripes, as well as checks;
• lightweight fustian,
• and stretchy wool corduroy.

Velvet is the season’s hit: a trace of elegance from the wardrobe of “back when…”.

Special thanks to the exhibitors for their contribution to the press service.