AVANT-GARDE | PITTI UOMO 93 Trends
SECTIONS: Make The New Makers, Futuro Maschile, Touch!, l’Altro Uomo, Born in the USA, Unconventional, Open
THE GREEN ATTITUDE IS GOING VIRAL IN AN ORGANIC TREND
Relaxed silhouettes and looks with nomadic air define a new concept in comfort. A new assessment of our relationship with the environment and the desire to reconnect with nature translate into autumn colors and raw materials – all in step with the new organic trend.
- deconstructed jackets in “melted” look wools,
- micro textures,
- bouclé pinstripes,
- wool or cotton blousons with a rough-look texture worn over soft jersey,
- wool flannel or bouclé wool trousers.
Research on environmental sustainability reaches new heights in the more progressive/experimental collections. Military-style capsule collections are dressed in natural materials. Jackets are made by energy- and waste-conscious firms, that limit energy consumption and avoid wasting materials. Fabrics are naturally stone-washed for greater softness; colors are not fixed with chemicals, and waterproofing is RICH certified.
HANDMADE AND A UNIQUE STORY
The aim is to blur the boundaries between the beautiful and the function, using archives as a source of inspiration and the past as the point to go beyond. Exclusive and handmade collections, signed by devoted craftspeople who are able to combine age-old methods with modernity keeping an eye on today. Hand-processed fine and exotic hides ennoble the cosmopolitan gentleman’s business bag, jewels with antique shapes become accessories for the new dandy, hats from historical and heritage workshops dictate new trends. Tailoring joins hands with Japanese sensitivity in outerwear with a high-tech touch; knitwear reinterprets archive patterns by playing with fit, and footwear combines Nordic design with Italian knowhow.
THE CITY WARRIOR’S LOOK BETWEEN STREET LUXURY AND WORKWEAR
It’s a look that is projected towards the future in new unisex uniforms with a tech character, recomposing military outfits, workwear and modern fits. Evermore precise sartorial research goes into underground luxury collections that combine tech fabrics, wools and cottons in Ski Warrior looks. Proportions are as fundamental as layering. If the materials recall army and work, there are also forays into the worlds of skiing and skating with total black looks. There’s a new dress code for spiritual-metro nomads: stressed-look leather bags and stoles mix things up with innovative fabrics. T-shirts like artists’ canvases to wear, unique prints, highly textured knits, mountain parkas or biker jackets and “antiqued” jewels. Mixed textures, dark colors interrupted by hi-tech details dominate the scene. As to footwear it’s revisited hiking boots or high-top urban sneakers with contrasting stitching and studs.
BEYOND STANDARDS, AND MAINLY BEYOND GENDER
Formal mixes it up with sportswear; natural highlights tech; light defines dark. New currents in thought and usage put the gender factor far into the background. The aesthetic moves away from standards — of sex, age, and season — and into soft, comfortable clothes, in basic palettes and easy combinations. Tailored jackets and over-sized knits hide or reveal the body without focusing on its specific features. The starting point is the sartorial silhouette that is remodeled through different treatments. A genderless spirit brings timeless allure and minimalism into sneakers, slippers and monk boots. When it comes to accessories, the male-female boundaries merge into a relaxed and sharing lifestyle with crossover models: backpacks, document carriers and clutches.
Special thanks to the exhibitors for their contribution to the press service.
«До улицы Сен-Жак мы идем молча. Время от времени от посматривает на меня украдкой, словно изучая мой профиль, но я-то знаю, что в эти минуты его больше интересует, что на мне надето — колготки или чулки?»